Day 7. 446 Miles. What Is A Title Other Than A Restriction On Creativity?

The great raccoon stalker of East York isn’t a real thing. Well. It wasn’t until it was. And then it was. So now it is. Camped out in the most urban of environments, this little fucker fucks with me all fucking night. Just me. In this 6×3 space of Earf that I’m trying to get some shut eye on. Finally at one point in the middle of the night, I go all Freddy Newandyke on the creepy vermin, yelling “Motherfucker, I’m trying watch the Lost Boys”. He leaves me alone after that.

Sun rises. Bacon, eggs, and geo-politicals with our international filmmaker and educational hosts heals the trauma from stalker raccoon and the back pain from uneven terrain. I’m easy like whatever day morning this easy, Lionel. And I’m in Toronto for the day.

Bellevue Park playground is some sort of neo utopia in the afternoon. Kids and adults alike are happy and smiling. I’ve literally slept on the bench in this park almost 20 years ago, which is a real feat at my age. This playground though. It looks like fun. It’s taking everything inside me not to go run out into the fountains. But I’m typing this right meow. Rn rn. There’s a super cool swing and I do like me a good swing. The see saw has a fucking line. Everyone is up in here, up in here. I don’t remember it this way.

Meanwhile I think about how empty the playgrounds in Buffalo are whilst I kick Carmen’s ass in tennis some mornings. The hard contrast in playground fun levels is a difficult m pill to swallow. Politicals doesn’t not come up as Americans in Canada. Canada is better maintained. Period. Most public park playgrounds aren’t like this one in the middle of this vintage shop and pretty overrun by homeless at times part of downtown Toronto called Kensington Market. Crazy. The US&A is stuck on a vicious cycle of non maintaining and non usage. It’s bigger and we need a massive movement toward virtuous cycles of our institutions. It takes a massive amount resources and energy to accomplish. Like. Early childhood. Infrastructure. To fucking start. If it sounds like Scandinavia, then we’re Scandalnavia. Massive amount of resources and energy.

Moments later the same phenomenon regenerates itself at the coffee shop. First tho, some sort of wack job of a woman whom ordered a cappuccino moments earlier – apparently in a normal manner – becomes quite unnerving and alarming and Just not ok… to the point of distressing the one-woman barista/cashier. Crazy Keira, let’s her Crazy Keira. She immediately starts shouting loud nonsense the second I walk in and get in line. Crazy Keira then picks up a phone and shouts some form of fake Spanish into it, going on and on so loudly that the barista (she’s definitely a Kim) can’t even hear my order correctly as I resist shouting myself. Crazy Keira keeps going in her with lunatic, brain-fried firm of attention seeking behavior for which she probably could get help. But eventually that bitch gets her coffee and gets the fuck out of the place. It’s takes several millennia for tranquility and balance to naturally return, because Kim, Chad, and I sit silently for a bit in a saucy mix of dismay, disbelief, and disgust.

Back to the goody goodness, it comes in the form of a decently impressive espresso tonic, thanks to Kim’s soldiering on through capitalist hellhole that the coffee service industry can bring. Nonetheless. Here at what I think is Cosmos Cafe, I give it a 6 or 7. Paris France’s offerings may never be defeated in this respect. This one right here is kinda, sorta a little more standard version of one but I’m glad it’s on the menu and I can verify that before walking in. I can’t tell you the amount of times I’ve walked into a place wanting an espresso tonic and then just got something else when they didn’t offer one. Because I can’t count higher than ten. Maybe I missed the opportunity to find a good one in Montreal… I shall continue searching menus worldwide for these rare and refreshingly tasty thangs of all thangs. Get you one. Oh. Meanwhile Chad’s munching a 50% off salad that Kim was able to upsell him once we could hear each other again. And he is still celebrating his poop game hard.

We’re gonna scribble outside of the line and hop-scotch all around along the time space continuum now, as I leave the Raleigh Sojourn outside with Chad and explore/navigate my way through Toronto’s Union Station in my now quite dusty and worn Adidas Sambas. No one pays me a goddamn cent to be that specific, yet they should. Uncertainty abounds immediately once we’ve decided to jump on the Lakeshore West GOTrain, a fairly awesome regional train line that accepts a couple bikes on each car for no extra cost. I’m buying two tickets from Union Station to Niagara Falls Ontario, saving us pedaling a good section of kilometers that I’ve already done several times over. Leaving us with about 25 miles down the mighty Niagara and getting us home tonight. Pretty nifty plan, until it’s not. Minutes after a machine gives me a general ticket for any train to Niagara, I’m now being advised by a human being that rush hour trains don’t allow bikes on them and that only rush hour trains go all the way to Niagara. Fuck a duck. Or a buck. Maybe fuck a truck. Struck. Shuck. Yuck. We can go to Burlington and get a bus. Me no want buses. Me no want transfers. Me sad.

Back at the Sojourn, I report my findings to Chad. He says it’s not uncertainties, it’s contradictions. I tell him to turn the fucking high school teacher part of him off. He heads into the station with his bike. I contemplate options and start wondering if we should just suck it up and haul our 100 pounds of bike and gear the entire 100-110 miles. My saddle sore and hamstrings both ask me what the fuck am I thinking? I imagine my hamstrings in Muppet Form. Chad returns. He talked to a manager who says we’re good. Fuck the fuck yeah, Chad. Teach on.

We get our day in downtown Toronto, bringing us all of the above plus an obligatory pork belly Banh Mi sandwich in honor of both that same well-named canine, as well as the possibly ill-named (but equally badass bestie) Isis, both of whom’s earthly remains have been stowed away under the handlebars, of course.

I nosh the Vietnamese sammich hard as we approach this train time with trepidation. More uncertainty and/or contradiction manifests for boarding process and train cars allowing bikes and what not. Henceforth something something something. So I have never been on this train. I go and scout out elevators for various platforms, hoping the 8 minute lapse between track announcement and arrival is enough. Kinda depends on how long it sits in the station before rolling out. Ultimately it’s little sweat and we get on just fine. Occupying a weird amount of space by the doors but sitting right next the correct insignia.

Disembarking in Niagara, its a few twists down to the Niagara River, we pass the Falls as dusk hits and I get sprayed with the usual light mist. A brief break as darkness falls, Charlie Murphy, and now we’re cruising along the Canadian side of the river on a quiet road that possesses not a single streetlight. It’s totally dark for the last fifteen miles to the border crossing in Fort Erie; I’m using up the last of my out-of-country style patriotism before having to re-enter America, and return to my more usual form of patriotism (aka dissent). Musing out loud, I ask Chad, “Now that we have the Gulf of America. When do we get the American Ocean?” and “Which one should we pick? Can there be two American Oceans?”. Chad doesn’t laugh but Customs & Immigration Officer checking our passports gets a chuckle out the information about this long ride from Montreal he’s being given by the two exhausted weirdoes standing before him. We’re buzzed through the gate and I instantly feel the vitriol in the air, citizens waiting for the next reason the TV gives them to hate each other. Three miles later and I’m in my on shower, then my own bed. Go home America, you’re drunk.

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Days 5 & 6. 408 Miles. People, Places, Pooping, and the Oxford Comma.

I am Jack’s total unawareness of what day or time it is. I am a slave to night and day and overwhelming physical exertion. However let me be clear in stating that I stand behind all commas, regardless of what others might say.

I’m about to sleep in a total strangers basement in Oshawa Canada. Sounds like some chop you up in your sleep shit but it’s really just a warm shower. Which sounds like something even worse I know. Fact is, I really didn’t wanna remote sleep two night in a row. These upstrangers feed me fish tacos and watermelon salad and fizzy water. Now I’m drinking decaf coffee brewed by them. So it’s fully on, to the fullest fullness of full. Luxury lifestyle thanks to our gracious new friends John and Pam. My long ride dexterity is softening now that I am three and a quarter years old. I don’t even know who I am anymore. I think maybe I need to take another shit.

Break yourself fool… be kind and rewind to Friday. Night, actually. Night 4, to be specific. When we roll up smoke dog style on the entrance station to Prequ’ile (Press Keal) Provincial Park, a beautiful piece of peninsula real estate jutting out into Lake Ontario. Not to be confused with Presque Isle (Press Kyle) State Park, a beautiful piece of peninsula real estate jutting out into Lake Erie. Cuz why in the fuck would that be confusing at all? So rn rn here at The Keal, the two yutes at entrance station inform us there’s no room at this inn baby Jesus. Which means that somehow out of the 2500 acres in this park, I can’t set up my 5 x 3 tent because there isn’t a chargeable space available. Commodification to the dumbest. I’d say the natives to this land are probably rolling over in their graves, but I can actually feel the ground moving around under my two feet. Rn rn. I even offered to pay these motherfuckers for a 5 ft.² space. They don’t know shit about the King’s foot. No stairway. Denied. But this denial is different because Chad and I — after all that — are still allowed free admission into the park, one yute tells us that it closes at 10; we don’t gotta be out til 10:30 PM. The sunsets at 8:30 PM here. I haven’t been conscious for more than 20 minutes past sunset in days. Some people call this ghost camping. Some people call this stealth camping. Some people call it trespassing. Some people call it squatting. Some call it loitering. To hell with all those fucking people, I call it remote sleeping. We find a discreet little corner away from any cars and parking lots and we pop up the palaces at just after sunset. Lights out.

Remote sleep wake up is a different animal, Belushi. Cold wake up and difficult to eject out of. But none of that gives a fuck about me. There’s also no chair no table no shower no toilet. Nada. Just consequences. So no time either, neither, and both. We move fast before we get caught. Get up get out get something, OutKast. Packing up and pushing out, westbound.

It’s twenty miles up and Chad is rambling on and on about whatever it is he knows a ton of something or even nothing about.. then he finally fucking comes to a nugget worth my attention as he says, “I’m not gonna celebrate it like you, but I do enjoy the regular morning bowel movements on a bike trip.” Word for fucking word. No human can deny it. Not a one. If you have a problem with constipation, grab your bicycle and don’t stop pedaling until the loaf is halfway out of the oven. Shit’s a celebration, bitches.

No dumping. Poop and scoop. I see these signs and I’m conflicted. To shit or not to shit. That is a question.

60 kilometers earlier and I’m facefucking a meat lovers breakfast plate at Hardy’s Diner. Greasy spoon goodness. Do it if you are ever in this place I’m in. Which I think is Cobourg. There’s photos of famous chefs on the wall. The presumed chef/owner tells me, “after I put the chef photos up, my husband insisted I have a cartoon chefs wall as well.” Amongst others along this wall are Homer Simpson, yet the real praise and glory truly goes out to the greatest of them all (and definitely NOT a cartoon), the motherfucking Swedish chef, holding knives and ready to lay on across the chicken’s neck! Bourdain’s ubiquitous portrait legitimately sits on the wall across from the Muppet; they’re having a bit of a stare down with each other while I crush Canadian bacon and ham and bacon — when mid mouthful I realize that I don’t even know the Swedish Chef’s real name. Self flabbergasted sounds way weirder than what it is and the shame inevitably leads me to our robot AI overlords, whom are a bit unclear about TSC having a name as well. Though I’ve been to Sweden a couple times, and it’s more like that his name is Lars or Anders.

Oshawa trail bench life is Rick James level interesting. Chad is doing his own brand of navigation where he gets himself lost and so I’m moving slowly up this creek trail and I’m not sure how I feel about the heads I’m turning and how I’m being processed. Like, I’m literally halfway between fearing-for-my-life emotions and seductively-charmed feels. The Osh (as I’m now calling it) definitely gots some grime and underbelly. Hoping I don’t get abducted, chained to a radiator, and burned by a crackpipe, I pedal on. Lots of commas. No calm. People look strange. Act strange. Are strange. And for once, it’s not just me. Takes a lot to make me feel awkward and this trail has got all of the above vibes.

Not so sound cliche, but where we’re going, we don’t need roads. Traversing dreamland. Setting the time circuit coordinates for the next morning. What the fuck is a jiggawatt. Chad and I are pedaling the last 50 miles into Toronto. It’s almost all suburbanesque, much to my chagrin. There are however bike lanes and facilities the entire way, which tells me all I need to know about Canada’s superior bicycling green space.

Another twenty miles and predictably, Chad is now contradicting himself and celebrating his bowel movements to the fullest. I don’t hate him for it but right now right now it’s another 30 miles later, I’m ridiculing him in front of his longtime friends, and my hosts for the evening, Linda and John. They’ve offered to let us camp in there downtown Toronto backyard. And dinner is getting hooked up too. Chicken in the grill. And to top the last few days off in way that might make Hammer say “proper”, Linda is telling me how she with Jim Henson for years and so the motherfucking Swedish Chef shows up once again, along with his chicken. Tomorrow we make a push for the border back the dystopian states of America.

I am Jack’s happiness over everything coming full circle. Fuck yes, chef.

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Days 4. 290 Miles. Three Years Old.

Day 4, time to keep score:

75 years ago, Buffalo NY was the 8th largest city in the United States. This has nothing to do with this particular long ride but birthplace requires such announcement… too bad, so sad.

467 kilometers pedaled.

We’ve thus far climbed 3,846 feet and descended 3,764 feet. Hmm.

Chad is 6’2” tall. I am 5’10”. Maybe 5’9”.

Chad is 58 years old. I am 3 years old. Ahem. Now then… if you’re one of those unlucky people reading this word vomit, actually paying attention and playing along at home, you may want to throw up your hands and say “so just yesterday you mentioned Chad being ten years older than you, what’s up with your fuzzy math?!” To that I say fuck you. I can’t count. I’m just told you that I am fucking three years old. I can maybe count to ten on a good day. Maybe. Ten is like the biggest number, ever. Evveerrrrr. Fight me.

Digable Planets truly let us know that we are all just babies, man. At least we should act it. I do. I’m Dee in thought about this and a cycling mom rolls by me stopped at a red light. What has to a three year old boy in the bag wagon, donned in an oversized helmet and even more enormous pair of wayfarers, is folding a cookie up and looks at me. Like dead ass into my eyes (even tho his are covered), deep into my soul, and gives me the slightest of nods. We stick together. Solidarity in toddlerdom, I say. With that, I’m convinced this is all I need to say for today. Nothing about Kingston coffee shop morning with native Montrealers. Nothing about the baller free ferry ride. Nothing about that magnificent tuna Gouda melt at a bicycle/coffee shop Picton. Nothing about super dark later night remote sleeping in a provincial park which shall remain unnamed. Nope. Byyyyeee.

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