Day 1. 67 Miles. 108 Kilometers And Running.

I’m on the shores of the St Lawrence River, feeling a feeling which must be what it’s like to be ass raped in a Canadian prison. The offending offender’s name is Chad. He tells me so I don’t have to make this up. Another fucking Chad. Couldn’t write it any better. God damnit. Fucking figures. The other Chad is a few kilometers back. Doing his usual. This new, younger, Canadian and clearly more sadist Chad, though… he’s here now. He lets me go “pick out a site”; each one I pick he tells me, “just got checked into”; I get upsold on a water front site. Some potato chips from the camp store. And now some Haagen Daz ice cream. By the time I walk out, it’s dark and I’m out 75 doll hairs. Straight up rape of my wallet, in my book. In the prison of my mind. I wonder if they serve poutine in Canadian jails. Does Canada even have prisons. Does Canada have criminals yet? They learn it by watching us, ok?

Back at the campsite, there’s little flat earth, there’s a giant hole dug immediately next to the picnic table, there’s overgrown vegetation on the other side of it. Mosquitos everywhere. My mind conjures up multiple scenes from Blood In, Blood Out. Vatos Locos forever. Can’t believe Ving Rames and Billy Bob Thornton show up in that film. Anywho. Canada. Clearly for sale, but not for cheap. I blame it on crossing the provincial line, from Quebec to Ontario. Never shoulda done it. I evade thick airfields of mosquitos and escape to bath house to grab a shower. It smells like fish in here. Not like, broiled sea bass with lemon. Mmmm. No like a “which fishermen gutted a goddamn trout in here?” stank. I wash my ass nonetheless. Nights fallen. I evade more mosquitos basically by diving into my tent and calling it a night.

Lemme dial up Rufus, get in the booth and start way back in Montreal.

Day before liftoff and we do all the things. All of them, I tell you! Phenomenal sushi. History lesson boat cruise. St Laurent thrift shopping. Air conditioned ferris wheel with surprise Bluetooth musical speaker capabilities. Underground mezcal speakeasy. Some guy on the street approaches me and — based on my hat/sunglasses combo (I guess?) — shakes my hand fervently, telling me he’s a huge fan of my music… naming Santana song after song. Let’s call him Luc. In his thick French accent (he’s probably actually a Luc-Jean) he’s jokingly telling me I look like Carlos Santana, presumptuously over estimating my musical abilities, psychedelic drug use and — most saddening to myself — bank account balance. So, like I said: all the things.

The next morning is get up and out. Fat fuck ourselves out at a breakfast spot called Tommy. Carmen and her kids take Chads car to do some daytime family stuff before dipping out via fossil fuels. Chad and I are long ride bound via leg muscles and protein bars. It’s late morning as we’re pedaling through this dense urban Francophone island. It’s difficult for me to leave Montreal. Another place I could live. Another lifetime I suppose. I barely speak one language fluently. Chad takes way too many side quests, wasting precious daylight. It’s already early afternoon when we finally make it to another isle.

Canal trails abound on this section of Le Route Vert. Which I have been told is French for “very rude”. It’s nice though. Oui oui. I give these Portable toilets 10/10. I’d happily shit here if I had too. Not this time. A wise lesson taught by total stranger whilst mutually urinating in a metal trough in Munich during Oktoberfest: Water in water out, for now.

Intention is really the name of the game today. Most days on a long bike ride. All days on the ones deemed successful. Moving with intention: cautious urgency, maybe urgent caution. Also, the true actual power of intention. Mental yardwork. Out here in nearly 100° F hard work. That’s like 37° Celsius for those of you playing along at home, in the comfort of your AC.

Chad cramps up. I get grumpy. We ride on. It’s beautifully calm during this stretch outside of the city and suburban ring of population. We cross the border from Quebec into Ontario as the sun gets low, it’s still 90° but it’s become more cooling and comforting. A lulling calm before the storm of my aforementioned encounter with that raping capitalist Chad from an Ontario provincial campground. So much for democratic socialism. Shoulda stayed in Montreal and I’d still have my dignity and dollars. Bon soir.

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The Obligatory, Fully-Loaded-Bicycle Picture

Aka “La photo obligatoire du vélo entièrement chargé”

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Day 0. Objective MTL

Bon jour. From basically utopia. Go ahead, combine the best parts of New Orleans, Barcelona and Mexico City into a city I can drive to in under 7 hours (but for some reason don’t nearly as much as I’d like), why don’t ya?!

Montreal’s got the non-homogenous big city vibe. Chocked full of culinary nirvanas — one cannot find something of non yum nature even if you try. Stocked with spaces of suggestively serendipitous loitering — one can comfortably relax outside whilst not participating in a transactional capitalist endeavor. Teeming with some of the most beautiful attractive humans on Earf — I really can’t tell where her parents came from or if she looks better from the back or the front. Then toss in a healthy dose of good old, fuck-the-government, separatist individuality from rest of Canada — for shits and giggles. All this, and a bag of bilingual immersion to boot. I hear French, I speak English. It all just works. Chad agrees. Carmen agrees. Carmen’s two boys agree. Oui.

We roll out packed in Chad’s Subaru, clinging to the hope Canada won’t fuck with 4 skins tones, 3 different decades of birth, and 4 different last names all in one car. We expect to be pulled over, but for how long? Will we break on through to the other side, J-Mor? Chad’s driving. He’s got a French last name. Carmen makes some means French toast. I really enjoy French kissing. They gotta let us in. They do. Without incident. I think we luck out when a couple dumb asses in front of us in line can’t read neither the English nor French signs alerting drivers to “STOP HERE BEFORE PROCEEDING WHEN CLEAR” (Canadian license plates for the record, take that Trudeau or whoever’s in charge. So the bar was set pretty low. The border agent, who’s not on a horse, asks us, “why would you want to go the Montréal”? In a sarcastic tone and it takes everything in my nature to not respond with, “well, I hear Canada is not for sale, so we figured we come rent you for a while”. Instead, Chad replies “because is beautiful up there.” And away we go, without so much as a body cavity search.

We spend two nights up in here, up in here. I do the “why I don’t I live here?” questioning that inevitably comes up every time I visit any of the previously mentioned cities. And if you’re not paying attention that’s: New Orleans, Mexico City and Barcelona. Include Montreal and all of them become less affordable every day. Less tolerant of American expats every moment. Less willing to give me a non working resident visa in five years. The walls of US branded fascism closing in on me, angling to trap me forever. Forever ever? Forever, ever.

We’re part tourists, part refugees, part sustainable travelers. This is the start point for the next long ride. Not too long though. Just gotta go home from here. Chads coming. Carmen and her offspring are taking Chad’s motor vehicle back with them. We’re gonna ride along the St Lawrence Seaway, a waterway which basically ended Buffalo’s hopes of holding any sort of importance as a city on the map. Well that, and a special brand of the disgustingly crippling and blatant racism that has plagued most every other American city. Erie Canal rendered obsolete upon completion? Let’s compound that effect with real estate redlining, worker suppression, and intentional health disparities galore. Freddie Olmstead designed NYC’s Central Park, Mount-Royal Park and Buffalo’s internationally unique parkway system… Robert Moses chose to destroy only one of those three with his dumb fuck highways, separating neighborhoods which once had proud histories and local economic bases, leaving only poverty and disconnection in his wake. Take me to the river.

Nonetheless. We do the vacation things. We eat. We drink. Merriment. 36 hours. Chad and I pick up, preparing to partake in another pedal party. Probably 500-600 miles. Waterfront Trail.

We start by doing what’s necessary. Then what’s possible. Then suddenly we’re doing the impossible. It’ll be fun. I’m a try to do this writing thing and stay alive. Oh Canada.

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