Day 4. 257 Miles. The Spoke Gods Must Be Crazy.

It’s a frosty morning in the desert. I find myself boiling coffee in a parking lot and shitting in vault toilets. It’s disgusting. The toilet, not the coffee. The coffee is obviously wonderful. I accept all small luxuries with open arms.

The various road conditions coming into Yuma create matrices in my mind. Like, you know, calculus and shit. I took CALC 2 three times as part of my 4 year degree that took five. In one matrix of sorts, my preferred road condition involves a smooth surface combined with little to no vehicular traffic. Thems is pretty much the unicorns.

Most miles on interstate 8 have mainly provided the smooth and very well maintained surfaces but with heavy traffic at damn-why-does-everyone-gotta-be-in-a-hurry-to-almost-kill-me kinda speed. So, yeah… fuck that quadrant.

A lot of today we’re on quiet roads that are all kinds of torn to shit. Whether desert-weathered aggregate that is probably older than me or farm equipment pounded ripples and bumps everywhere — it’s like riding an mediocrely maintained mountain bike trail. We deal with almost zero cars, but can’t move any faster than 6 or 7 mph. I stand for much of it. With a fully loaded bike the risk of blowing a spoke is through the roof in this corner. Ask the state of Mississippi.

Being kind and rewinding back to me leaving that stinky outhouse near Imperial San Dunes: Our first half of the morning jaunt into Yuma is a horribly ripply speed bumped section of Interstate 8. It’s kinda like a rail trail that has an annoying root bump every 5 feet, except add the good ol boy 84 mph club in for shits and giggles. This is the worst of all worsts. Neo dodges bullets, I dodge wheel damage and assault via deadly weapon at high velocity.

With all these surface conditions afflicting us, I dig deep into the fictitious bike scriptures and call on the awesome power of the spoke gods. It is a completely made up, yet highly controversial practice that is not without consequence. Part positive intentions, part trail hallucination, it is wholly necessary at this junction.

Praise be the spoke gods, may they keep our rides true and may they find it within them to have mercy on our wheels. Should they find us worthy, may they also provide us smooth surfaces. We roll over rough terrain at 6 mph for hours upon hours, singing the spoke gods praises. Calling our. In a humorously ironic amalgamation of church and state, we hit the US Army Yuma Proving Grounds and these military-owned roads are as soft and gentle as baby uncle Sam’s ass. Or was it baby Moses’s ass? Whatever. The spoke gods have spoken! The spoke gods have spoken.

Head winds roll. We push on. Beyond the Proving Ground the roads are smooth sailing. Grocery store burritos are crushed. Finally as the sun starts to set, we tuck into a public park for a little remote sleeping. I raise the travel condo and suddenly Butterfield park has a penthouse level and a perfect view of the sunset. Zzzzz.

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Day 3. 189 Miles. Enter Sand, Man.

If you’re just coming in and were not yet aware, three is the magic number. I promised wild UFO shit and stopped at three of the five stations and donated a quarter. Pretty weird stuff here gang.

No poop. No coffee. Out the RV door and rolling. Somewhat windy, but 15 miles back on Interstate 8 to a store in Ocotillo and we descend something like 3000 feet. I’m not even pedaling as I violate the posted 35 mph speed limit. I can feel my right foot start to twitch as I hit 40+ mph – so I tap the break just a tad and in just time for a swirling mountain wind to come around the corner and try to push me over from the left. The winds are formidably unpredictable; we cover that 15 miles in 40 minutes and tuck into the Red Feather Cafe for coffee and breakfast.

We’ve now got nothing but low desert from here to Phoenix. With a flat earth scenario in front of us, we put the 33 miles to Calexico in our pocket. We fill up water and crush some lunch. I’ve totally got a crush on these Mexicano pedialyte electrolyte drinks I’ve been, they help me against cramping and taste way better than the USA versions. I really really wanna start calling them Mexicolectrolytes. It’s hard to say, so I keep practicing.

Both Damon and I have our passports on us, ready to cross the border into Mexicali. Mainly because I’ve never been there but also just cause I’m honestly tired of all these worldwide travel restrictions. Anyway. If you’re keeping score on the interwebs, the We-Didn’t-Go-To-Mexicos are winning 1-0. Though one might argue that I’m already in 🇲🇽. But that’s a subject for another blog. Miles and miles of wall is the subject Damon and I tackle in our typically point for point fashion. We’re debate fashionistos bitches. I’m astounded at the cost of a wall up and over mountains for what purpose? The desert and the mountains are very effective natural walls. Out here riding on this very quiet road with absolutely nothing else around drives home how remote a place we are in. I say to Damon “Should someone actually make it through alive on foot, I’d have to offer them some water and find out why they’d go through all that”. Damon remarks at the human capital expensed on building, maintaining, and arguing about this wall. He’s right too. He expands. Some are against immigration because of ignorance. Some because of economics. I tell him I’m all in on America leading when it comes to immigration policy. Maybe study models that other nations are using and creatively adapt them to our own needs and circumstances. Instead we don’t lead in shit. Wait. Actually we do lead in shit. America puts out more shit than anywhere else, at least figuratively. US and A!

We’re pushing another 30 miles out side by side without saying anything to each other. Soaking up the vastness of the space. Coming up toward Yuma, we have to get back on Interstate 8 and it’s just no bueno amigo. Four miles of that crap and we call it quits for the day alongside the Imperial Sand Dunes. That 85 miles feels like 85 miles right now. I pop up the castle for the first time this trip and suddenly I’ve got the entire kingdom around me, my reign set against the backdrop of a magnificent sunset synchronized below a perfect crescent moon. Head. Pillow. Snore.

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Arranged to be unreachable

Get in your DeLorean and time travel to ten days ago, when I’m watching The Undoing on HBO. Wishing I wasn’t. Wishing I was in actual physical pain rather than psychosomatic actual pain. Climbing hills in what my research has indicated is quite a formidable section of my route known as “Texas Hill Country”, not the hills of pandemic boredom, depression, and loneliness in my mind that are now reaching full human gestation level shittiness. Call it somber AF without the sobriety. Needless to say, remote stretches soothe my soul. Solitude is a cure. I’m arranging to be as unreachable as possible. Even if there was phone service, I wouldn’t know. Because my phone stays in airplane mode all day. It’s just a map. A jukebox. A camera. A notepad. So I’m gonna need you to go ahead and leave a message at the tone.

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