Suburbakillyah

Assuming a lack of rail trails or other long stretches of motor vehicle free paths, cycle touring is all about rural yet paved roads for me. While most cities generally are decent for cycling, the suburbs you have to get through to get into them are not. So I have a general touring protocol of avoiding cities and the suburbs that surround whenever I can. Today I broke against that and rolled in Baton Rouge Louisiana.

Coming west up a typical suburban 5 lane road, traffic sucks but I’m pretty happy with the wide shoulder (the name of the road should have tipped me off). This particular stretch of 6 mile shitty chain strip malls is called Florida Street. The shoulder is messy with debris but wide, with a rumble strip. I’m in morning cruise mode, about 10 mph.

At an interchange with a larger highway, the shoulder disappears right after and off ramp to a bisecting highway, so I tuck over the rumbling and into traffic just as a motorist in a pickup truck behind me decides that the three foot passing law should really be interpreted as three inches. At the same time, a motorist in a shitty white car merging off the highway via the curve decides they should ignore the yield sign and instead speed up to vroom vroom me out of their way.

Coincidentally, right in the middle of this pinch point I now in is a fun little crevice of a hole (about 2 inches wide, 3 inches deep, and 2-3 feet long – just the perfect size for my front tire to dip into). And now I have no choice left, so dip into I did. That fucking hole grabs my wheel with a loud pop, jerks me to the side and almost knocks me over in front of one of these two motorists who eagerly need to get to that next ride light before me. I keep pedaling and keep my balance and somehow manage to not fall or get hit – but I yell out one hell of a “fuck” to both of them, knowing damn well that didn’t hear shit and possibly never even saw me.

I even drew a shitty illustration of the whole thing.

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Day 1. 77 miles. 103° F Heat Index.

Of course it had to be 77 miles, but I could have gone for 77° too. This heat is straight up Wu-Tang*

Shoutout to Talking Heads and WTC on the playlist today. Much of my day was spent on the levee bike path out of NOLA. Fantastic paved path built on top of the levees along the Mississippi River. What a novel idea to put a path along a previously engineered and existing green space. If only Buffalo could take note and do the same along, let’s say, the Olmsted Park system – rather than the current highways that have occupied that truly unique space since the 50s.

Met a fantastic man name Dale in Lutcher Louisiana, he’s got an awesome spot for touring cyclists out there. I stopped by to escape the midday heat but didn’t stay. I feel like the first day out should be one of the toughest, and 50 miles before lunch time wouldn’t cut it. Plus I wanted I sleep outside. Nonetheless, the back of his man cave spot has one of the most impressive bike repair setups I have ever seen. I told him I’d probably be wishing I had access to it in the next few weeks. We talked about his days of riding, about Louisiana history, and about his retirement plan – which involves enough private land to allow him to ride around in his tractor with a shotgun wearing nothing but a straw hat. Quite an interesting and awesome guy, and he even has a map that designates New York City as a secondary city – gotta love it.

It only took me about 2 miles to have a car pass me way too close, but it did take 60 miles before I saw a confederate flag. I’ve been considering keeping count, but that might prove futile in a matter of days. (I saw a total of 3 today, which is less than I’ve seen riding through North Tonawanda, NY – a city which was clearly never in the confederacy.)

Built my own castle for the night in the backyard of another awesome bicycle tourist named Adam. The subculture that is humans who ride bikes long distances never ceases to amaze me – the coolest people from across the globe end up with so much in common when that’s the starting basis. Adam is big into bikepacking, a term I’ve only recently learned about. He tells me the distinction mainly lies in the fact that it’s more off road than standard bicycle touring, which tends to be on paved roads. Really nerdy shit. While I enjoy sleeping in a tent as opposed to hotels, hostels or garages, I wasn’t sure how into bikepacking I’d be until I browsed through some of his books on the subject and discovered the phenomenon that is the packraft – an inflatable boat that u can bring on your bike and make the journey both land and water-based. Absolute tits! I may have yet another thing to spend my well earned money on.

*

Posted in bicycle tour cross country raleigh soujourn, bicycle touring, on the road | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Mile 0.0 New Orleans

Yesterday was arrival day; today is gear day; tomorrow I’m hitting the open road bright and early.

My Sojourn arrived safely and securely (thanks to my host Alex for putting up with my neurotic messaging all last week about it) and it’s now reassembled – with just a little fine tuning left to do. I then have to get all my gear packed up and on it. Probably 90 lbs with the bike and all. Shouldn’t take a whole day to do this, but I was out late on Frenchmen Street last night, so there’s a bit of hanging – the norm in this fine city.

I often state that 80% of cities are homogenous and while overseas have many times advised a foreigner planning a trip to the USA to forgo Vegas or NYC and hit New Orleans first – there’s so much more to be experienced in a city with a truly unique character and charm like no other. I’ve been to 60-70 cities worldwide and maybe 10-15 of them warrant a return visit. New Orleans is at or near the top of that list!

I also often state that anyone can complete a long distance bike tour with the proper time available and proper gear – and so the true gold out on the online cycle touring community is the packing list. Most anyone who has an online site/blog/etc on the subject will share theirs, and it makes for a great starting point for anyone considering a tour. My last packing list is almost a decade old, so I will finally be updating it later today or tomorrow once I’m all packed up.

But for now, coffee and beignets.

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